Our signature product
Not one material. One standard.
We don't chase a single "hero fiber." Hemp does the heavy lifting where structure matters most — the gi. Bamboo does the work where breathability matters most — against skin, during the round. Organic cotton does the work everywhere else.
The common thread isn't the plant. It's the refusal to reach for polyester because it's cheaper.
Why We Will Never Put Polyester in a Daruma Gi
Why we would never put polyester in a Daruma Gi:
Most people who buy a cheap gi don't know what's actually in it. The tag says "cotton blend" or just doesn't say much at all. Here's what that blend usually is, why it's there, and why we don't use it.
Polyester is in a gi for one reason: it's cheaper to make
It's also why cheap gis start to smell — and stay that way
There is no Magic
Why this matters more than it sounds like it should
Every gi we make is checked against this standard before anything else: zero polyester, in the weave or anywhere else.
- Hemp Gi — 100% hemp.
- Pearl Weave Gi — 30% bamboo viscose, 70% cotton.
- 380GSM Lightweight Gi, Black Tenzō Gi, Kids Gi, Noir Edition Gi, Kondoro Kids Collection — 100% GOTS-certified organic cotton.
Not a blend that's "mostly natural." Not a lining you'd only find if you cut the seam open. None of it.
Sources: Fierer, N. et al., "Microbial Odor Profile of Polyester and Cotton Clothes after a Fitness Session," Applied and Environmental Microbiology (2014); Abdul-Bari, M.M. et al., "Retention and release of odorants in cotton and polyester fabrics following multiple soil/wash procedures," Textile Research Journal (2020).
Material Comparison
| Attribute | Hemp Best | Bamboo Viscose | Organic Cotton | Synthetic/Conventional |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Strength vs. conventional | 3x higher | — | Baseline | Baseline |
| Water to grow (per kg) | 300-500L | 3000 L | 5,000-7,000L | 10,000L (conventional cotton) |
| Pesticide use | None | Minimal | None | High (conventional) |
| Odor resistance | Natural | Good | None | None |
| Breathability | High | Excellent | Good | Poor |
Shahzad, A. (2013). "A Study in Physical and Mechanical Properties of Hemp Fibres." Advances in Materials Science and Engineering. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1155/2013/325085
"Experimental and Statistical Investigations for Tensile Properties of Hemp Fibers." Fibers (MDPI, 2024). https://www.mdpi.com/2079-6439/12/11/94
ScienceDirect, "Hemp Fiber" topic overview. https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/hemp-fiber
Chapagain, A.K., Hoekstra, A.Y., et al. "The Water Footprint of Cotton Consumption." Value of Water Research Report Series, waterfootprint.org. https://www.waterfootprint.org/resources/Report18.pdf
Comparative study of water requirements and water footprints of fibre crops hemp and cotton, Journal of Agrometeorology. https://journal.agrimetassociation.org/index.php/jam/article/view/2260
"Estimating water usage of bamboo," Dr. Volker Kleinhenz. https://www.volkerkleinhenz.com/publications/estimating-water-usage-of-bamboo
"Antibacterial Properties of Hemp and Other Natural Fibre Plants: A Review." ResearchGate. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/270502952_Antibacterial_Properties_of_Hemp_and_Other_Natural_Fibre_Plants_A_Review
Purdue University Newsroom, "Legal hemp raises questions about pesticides" (2018). https://www.purdue.edu/newsroom/archive/releases/2018/Q4/legal-hemp-raises-questions-about-pesticides.html
FTC, "Bamboo Textiles" — official guidance on labeling and enforcement. https://www.ftc.gov/bamboo-textiles
FTC Business Alert, "Don't Be Bamboozled by Environmental Benefit Claims." https://www.ftc.gov/system/files/documents/plain-language/alt172-how-avoid-bamboozling-your-customers.pdf
SGS, "US FTC Fines Companies for False Labeling on So-Called 'Bamboo' Textiles" (2022). https://www.sgs.com/en/news/2022/05/safeguards-06322-us-ftc-fines-companies-for-false-labeling-on-so-called-bamboo-textiles
"A comparative life cycle assessment of viscose fibers derived from cotton, wood, and bamboo pulp." ScienceDirect. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S092666902501814X
MOSSRIVER, "Is Bamboo Fabric Really Antibacterial? The Science Behind the Claim." https://www.themossriver.com/blogs/articles/is-bamboo-fabric-really-antibacterial
Every Fiber We Use, and Why It's There
We don't pick materials because they sound good on a label. Every fiber in a Daruma product is doing a specific job, and we can tell you exactly what it is and why it's there — including the parts that aren't fully natural.
Hemp: structure
Hemp does the heavy lifting in the Hemp Gi, where the fabric has to survive years of grip fighting without failing at the seams. Peer-reviewed testing (Shahzad, 2013, Advances in Materials Science and Engineering) puts hemp fiber's tensile strength at roughly 2–3 times that of cotton at the conservative end of published ranges. Longer fiber length and higher cellulose content are what make that possible — it's not a marketing multiplier, it's fiber structure.
Bamboo viscose: breathability, with an honest caveat
Bamboo shows up in the Pearl Weave Gi (30%, blended with cotton) and does the bulk of the work in our rashguards (95%, with 5% spandex for stretch) and as the inner lining of our grappling shorts.
Here's the part most brands leave out: what's sold as "bamboo fabric" — ours included — is bamboo viscose, meaning the raw plant is chemically processed into a soft, spinnable fiber. That processing is also why we don't market it as naturally antimicrobial. The compound responsible for bamboo's antibacterial reputation doesn't reliably survive the viscose process, and the U.S. FTC has fined multiple retailers for making that exact claim. What does survive is the fiber's structure: bamboo viscose absorbs and releases moisture efficiently, which is what actually keeps it breathable during a five-round session. We'll make that claim. We won't make the antimicrobial one.
Organic cotton: everywhere else, and it's certified
Our 380GSM Lightweight Gi, Black Tenzō Gi, Kids Gi, Noir Edition Gi, and Kondoro Kids Collection are 100% GOTS-certified organic cotton — Global Organic Textile Standard, independently audited from farm to finished garment, not a claim we're making unverified. That certification doesn't extend to the Pearl Weave Gi, whose cotton content is conventional; we'd rather say that plainly than let one certified product imply the whole line is certified.
The one place we use a true synthetic, and why
Our grappling shorts have a recycled polyester outer shell, made from post-consumer PET bottles. Grappling shorts take a different kind of load than a gi — four-way stretch through deep hip movement, constant friction, constant sweat — and natural fiber alone doesn't hold up to that yet without failing early. So the compromise goes where it does the least harm: polyester on the outside, and the same 95% bamboo viscose / 5% spandex fabric used in our rashguards lining the inside, so the only fiber against your skin is the natural one.
It's the one product in our lineup that isn't fully natural fiber, and we're not going to bury that in fine print. Every gi we make has zero polyester in it — full stop. The shorts are the deliberate, disclosed exception, not an inconsistency someone else has to point out.
Made in Portugal
Our organic cotton products are manufactured in small ateliers in Portugal rather than mass-production facilities. Manufacturing in Portugal means EU labor law applies by default, the supply chain is short enough to actually trace, and Portuguese textile mills carry some of the highest combined OEKO-TEX and GOTS certification density in Southern Europe.
The short version
Hemp where structure matters. Bamboo viscose where breathability matters, described as what it actually is. Certified organic cotton where we say it's certified, and only there. Recycled polyester exactly once, disclosed, and kept off your skin. That's the whole material list — nothing more, nothing rounded up.
Sources: Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification body. Hemp tensile-strength and FTC bamboo-labeling sources are cited above, under the material comparison table.